Advanced Glossary

For the experienced needleworker: a deeper reference covering thread types, canvas varieties, techniques, and the finer points of the craft.

Canvas Types

Mono Canvas — A single-thread weave where each mesh intersection is formed by one horizontal and one vertical thread. This is the most common canvas type for needlepoint. It offers good flexibility and works well with most techniques. Our sublimated canvases are printed on mono canvas.

Interlock Canvas — Similar to mono, but the threads are twisted together at each intersection, locking them in place. This prevents the canvas threads from shifting, which some needleworkers prefer for projects that use a variety of techniques or that will see heavy handling.

Penelope (Double-Thread) Canvas — Woven with pairs of threads in each direction, creating a grid that can be worked at two different mesh counts on the same canvas. You can work over the paired threads for a coarser gauge or split them apart for finer detail in specific areas. Useful for projects that combine broad coverage with precise focal points.

Thread Types in Depth

Persian Wool — A three-ply yarn that can be separated into individual strands to adjust coverage. Versatile, widely available, and forgiving of tension variation. The standard thread for traditional needlepoint.

Tapestry Wool — A single-ply, tightly twisted yarn that cannot be separated. Produces a smooth, even surface with consistent coverage. Preferred for projects where uniformity matters.

Pearl Cotton (Perle Cotton) — A mercerized cotton thread with a distinctive twist and gentle sheen. Available in several weights: #3 (heaviest, best for 7–10 mesh), #5 (versatile, excellent for 12–14 mesh), and #8 (finest, suitable for 18+ mesh). Beautiful for projects where you want a slightly luminous finish.

Stranded Cotton (Embroidery Floss) — Six loosely twisted strands that can be separated and recombined to adjust thickness. Offers the most precise control over coverage and allows for subtle color blending. Requires more attention to tension and lay.

Silk — Luxurious, luminous, and unforgiving. Silk threads catch the light beautifully and produce an incomparable sheen, but they require careful handling—they tangle easily and show tension inconsistencies. A worthy indulgence for special projects or accent areas.

Metallics and Specialty Threads — Threads with metallic wrapping, ribbon-like textures, or novelty finishes. Used as accents to add sparkle, dimension, or textural contrast. Many require short working lengths and a gentle touch, as they can fray or unravel.

Technique Terms

Compensation — When a decorative technique meets the edge of a design area, full-pattern repeats won’t always fit. Compensation is the practice of working partial versions of the pattern to fill these edges cleanly. It requires spatial reasoning and a bit of planning, but it’s what separates a polished piece from one that looks unfinished at the borders.

Laying Tool — A smooth, pointed instrument (often a large blunt needle or a specialized “trolley needle”) used to guide thread flat against the canvas as each step is completed. Laying your threads prevents twisting and ensures even light reflection—especially important when working with silk or stranded threads.

Blocking — The process of reshaping a finished canvas back to its original dimensions after working. Even with good technique, canvas can distort slightly over the course of a project. Blocking involves dampening the canvas and pinning it to a board in its correct shape until dry. Essential before finishing.

Thread Coverage — How completely the thread conceals the canvas beneath. Good coverage means no canvas shows through between your worked threads. Coverage depends on thread type, the number of strands or plies used, your tension, and the mesh count. Testing coverage with a small sample area before committing to a full project is always wise.

Waste Knot — A temporary anchoring method for starting a new thread. A knot is tied at the end of the thread and the needle is inserted from the front of the canvas a short distance away from where you’ll begin working. As you progress toward the knot, your new threads secure the tail on the back. Once you reach the knot, you snip it away. Clean, secure, and leaves no bulk on the back of your work.

Canvas Distortion — The tendency of a canvas to pull out of square during working, particularly when using techniques that apply uneven tension (such as continental worked exclusively in one direction). Basketweave minimizes distortion because it alternates tension direction. Stretcher bars and proper blocking further counteract this effect.